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A Feel For Fashion: Amy Odell

Interviews

Amy Odell is an incisive (and often refreshingly outspoken) fashion and culture journalist whose work spans The New York Times, Time and more. Based in New York, she’s also the author of major books including Tales From the Back Row: An Outsider’s View from Inside the Fashion Industry (a candid memoir of her time working in fashion), Anna: The Biography (a deeply reported portrait of Condé Nast’s famed Anna Wintour) and Gwyneth: The Biography (on, you guessed it, Paltrow). Odell’s writing combines insider savvy with an unafraid-to-ruffle-feathers honesty. She also pens “Back Row,” a twice-weekly newsletter offering sharp takes on style, retail, culture, media — including all the ways they overlap.

With magazines but throughout the fashion industry, there seems to be more overlap between fashion/entertainment and fashion/sports than ever. Thoughts?

I think fashion is propping up other industries like it never has before. Particularly in entertainment: fashion brands are producing award-nominated movies; top designers are costuming high-quality films; and people are tuning into award shows just to see what people are wearing. I think other industries are only wise to exploit their connections to fashion. 

 

AI will continue to disrupt and impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?

The idea that AI could come up with cures for cancer and other diseases is incredibly exciting. In addition to worrying about AI replacing human workers, I also worry about the atrophying of our collective intellect if we continue to rely on AI tools that we didn't have even so much as two years ago to perform intellectual labor.

 

How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?

I think consumers are looking for an escape from a lot of darkness in the news, and that's one reason fashion content is so, so popular right now. People want to dream and look at beautiful things. I would love to see more beauty in fashion. 

 

Do trends still matter?

Yes, I think they matter a lot! They just seem to move more quickly than ever before and are driven more by the algorithm and cultural moments (like Barbie and the TV show Love Story) than any one tastemaker.

 

What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward? 

It's exciting to see new brands break through, like Phoebe Philo’s, that don't do everything the same as it's always been done (two annual runway shows, influencer marketing, releasing collections according to the fashion calendar, etc). 

 

What is a positive objective or goal that you would like to see the industry work towards?

Connecting luxury and responsibility. The way things are made shouldn't be opaque. Ethical supply chains shouldn't be a side project; they should be part of what justifies luxury prices. 

 

What has been a highlight of your career so far?

Getting to write for a living. I love sitting down with an idea and a blank page.

 

This interview has been lightly edited.