RIZ POLI - TEMPORAL POLYPHONY
"Like Bach's music, polyphony involves several voices engaging in counterpoint, a dialogue between distinct sound threads. Defining polyphony through temporality stems from the constant inspiration I draw from Paris: isn't this city the very embodiment of that name? Eras overlap, cultures intertwine, silhouettes circulate like living strata," says Chen Yu, creator of RIZ POLI in 2022. With conceptual verve, he champions a vision that roots fashion in a multidisciplinary experience, at the crossroads of poetry, sociology and art. He is part of the SPHERE Showroom, an initiative with the support of L’Oréal Paris and Le DEFI taking place at the Palais de Tokyo until March 10.
What inspired this collection?
A friend who previously worked with Demna Gvasalia during his Vetements period once told me that Exactitudes magazine was his ‘bible.’ For me, it was the French philosopher and theorist of contemporary society, Jean Baudrillard. Reading his works, I discovered Mikhail Bakhtin and his commentary on Fyodor Dostoevsky's novels, which sparked an eternal curiosity in me for the word ‘polyphony.’
Polyphony, initially vocal, then extended not only to instrumental practice, but also to the metaphorical representation of balance within a city or society where different groups and individuals coexist.
In this collection, we have reintroduced male models as a second ‘voice’ to harmonise with the first ‘voice,’ the female models. We have also incorporated Riz Poli's signature techniques of layering and deconstruction throughout the collection.
How would you describe the colour palette?
I immediately think of the Italian painter Giorgio Morandi; his colours never scream, they whisper. Powdery, dusty, slightly muted tones, a palette that seems restrained, but contains a silent depth like the gradation of coffee beans.
Which materials did you particularly enjoy working with?
That's quite a difficult question for me to answer, as I have many favourite fabrics.
If we limit ourselves to the AW26 collection, I would mention leather, wool, technical fabrics and silk. We have continuously researched and developed leather, particularly sheepskin, from denim-inspired textures from previous seasons to aged washes. The AW26 collection focuses more on prints and simulated irregular textures that are soft, light, but offer a neutral feel.
Omletex is a fabric supplier I admire greatly; their nylon and cotton blends are exceptionally well designed. This season, we developed our own elephant grey striped silk, using irregular cuts to highlight both the stripes and the intrinsic qualities of the silk. Grey always evokes a sense of neutrality for me.
Who is your ideal fictional character?
The first person who comes to mind is Sabina, in Milan Kundera's novel, The Unbearable Lightness of Being. She embodies betrayal as well as freedom; an elegance that refuses to be pigeonholed.
A movie or book that fascinates you?
I am currently re-reading Cool Memories, Volumes 1-5, by Jean Baudrillard. It is an ironically satirical work, brimming with extremely imaginative metaphors.
It's too difficult to choose the film that fascinates me the most, because we are spoilt for choice; there are simply too many excellent films in the world. The first ones that come to mind are Slavoj Zizek's The Pervert's Guide to Ideology or Chen Kaige's Farewell My Concubine.
Is there a childhood memory that shaped your career path?
It's really difficult to answer that question because we are constantly seeking inspiration throughout our lives. I don't think there was a single defining moment, rather a silent accumulation of images and sensations.
Is there a neighbourhood or place in Paris that you particularly love?
Without a doubt, I would choose Rue de Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris.
I first noticed it in 2015, then, thanks to my work, I got to know this street well. It has the best latte in all of Paris at 5 Paille, as well as a multitude of delicacies, fishmongers, tailors, and Brut, which was located there before moving to their current premises in the third arrondissement
This street has become increasingly bohemian-bourgeois, but it remains a melting pot of diverse people and cultures. Spending an entire afternoon here is always inspiring.
How would you define yourself today? Your aesthetic?
Poetic, resilient and androgynous, I have always been captivated by a certain type of person: those who are bold, confident, imaginative, fearless and resolutely follow their own path.
Your mantra? Your lucky charm?
‘It's the bottom of the ninth inning.’
The bottom of the ninth inning, which generally refers to the last half-inning of regulation time in a baseball game, represents the last chance to turn the game around. It reminds me to always seize every opportunity.
Your vision for 2026 and your plans?
The plans we can reveal at the moment are to organise a pop-up event to allow more people to discover our brand's products.
If you were a place, which destination suits you?
I don't quite understand what you mean by this question, but I'll try to answer it.
I like lively places; I used to love raves, although I haven't had the energy to go to them in recent years.
I really like Poush, a place for artists to create and exhibit their work, especially the whimsical creations of emerging artists whose vision of the world never ceases to fascinate me.
In Paris, my favourite gallery is Galerie Wolff, where I always find inspiration and encouragement. It is home to one of my favourite artists, Miriam Cahn.
This interview has been lightly edited.