When was the last time you marvelled over something in fashion?
In January 2024 when I saw John Galliano's collection for Maison Margiela Artisanal. My first ever fashion show was John's incredible Madame Butterfly Haute Couture collection for Dior in Spring 2007. You could say I'm emotionally attached to Galliano.
Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
Back in the day, you would discover new voices on the runway. I remember my first Gareth Pugh shows in London! But today you can see so much online. The only thing is that you must be more focused than ever since too many ideas are floating around. I think spotting talent is harder today than it was 15 or 20 years ago. Isn't it absurd?
In this attention economy, what or who has won over your attention right now?
I'm fascinated with people who stick to their guns no matter what. Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe are some of them. It's much more difficult to do what they do comparing to let's say "new ideas."
AI will continue to impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?
In my line of work I refuse to use AI. I don't have AI apps on my phone and I don't engage with it at all. This is my little protest against the new world order. When it comes to the creative industry I don't think anything good will come from AI. The essence of our industry must always be an emotional experience. That has to be the starting point. If we lose that, we risk losing everything.
How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?
Fashion was always around – during wars, revolutions and so many social movements. There is something in human DNA that makes us feel an almost existential need to decorate and embellish ourselves. It's primal human nature and it will always be there; therefore, fashion is essential for humans.
Do trends still matter?
Trends are vital for the economy of fashion. In one way or another they will always matter.
You can't escape them but great designers can mould and transform them. That famous "Devil Wears Prada" scene about the cerulean sweater is maybe entertaining, but it also says so much about the circle of life in fashion.
Who are your fashion heroes?
Rei Kawakubo, Miuccia Prada, Haider Ackermann, Olivier Theyskens, Rick Owens, Phoebe Philo, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela.
What are you most curious to know about how designers work, how a collection comes together?
I'm curious how designers dream. I'm curious about their process. How one Old Masters painting can inspire a whole collection of 60 outfits. It's creative alchemy. It's so irresistible.
What stands out as the most potentially disruptive influence on fashion on the horizon?
I think technology and the rise of AI will make fashion students try less instead of trying hard. Back in the day, you had to travel to get inspired, you had to go to theatres, libraries, archives...
Your eyes and soul were hungry for research. Now everything is too accessible, disposable and therefore more and more irrelevant.
If you could change one aspect of how we experience fashion today, what would it be?
I would ban social media and AI from fashion schools.
Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?
My first job in fashion was packing huge Prada monograph books in a PR storage in London.
I literally got blisters. I started at the bottom of the fashion pyramid.
What has been a highlight of your career so far?
Working with some of my heroes who have proven to be kind human beings such as Jessica Lange,
Penelope Cruz, Dustin Hoffman but also working with my talented comrades such as Steven Klein,
Olivier Theyskens, Val Garland and many others.
Is there any fashion show — no matter how far back — that you would have loved to attend?
Absolutely! Lee McQueen's "Voss" show from Spring 2001! Then Galliano's Fall 1994 show at Sao Schlumberger's hotel particulier, and Margiela's Salvation Army show from Fall 1992...God, I would love a time machine!
What is one positive objective or goal that you would like to see the industry work towards?
More kindness! Because kindness is the true luxury. It's still lacking in our industry.
If you could make any fashion wish come true, what would it be?
I would love to purchase my ex-boss's Melanie Ward's incredible archive.
This interview has been lightly edited.
