Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
I am always on the hunt to see where energy is building. Of course, I read as much as I can, but fashion is foremost a visual medium, so I often discover something new by seeing something sensational worn in a gallery, at a party, or across the street.
Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
We talk a lot about the loss of monocultural moments or, when they do occur, how fleeting they now feel. But there are still creatives who break through the noise by the force of a singular vision. The two most obvious examples today are Matthieu at Chanel and Jonathan at Dior. The beauty of platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Substack is that influence can come from anywhere or anyone, without the industry’s traditional gatekeepers. Yet that shift has also produced a kind of paradoxical nostalgia for women like Princess Diana and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, whose style cut through a far less crowded media ecosystem. It'll be interesting to see if today’s tastemakers have the same endurance.
With the magazine but throughout the industry, there seems to be more overlap between fashion/entertainment and fashion/sports than ever. Thoughts?
I think there has always been great overlap between the creative spheres, but I agree that sports has injected a new energy into fashion and art, bringing its own passionate audience to those industries.
AI will continue to disrupt and impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?
We are all supporting the demise of ourselves! Ha, kidding, but I would say I do have a lot of concerns at this stage and we need to ensure these tools are used for good. I’m also interested in designers who embrace AI in creative, subversive ways. Hillary Taymour used AI-generated prints in her brilliant Spring 2024 Collina Strada show. Just weeks ago, Demna promoted his Gucci collection with AI renderings that, in my mind, served as a comment on the repetition and artifice that has dominated fashion imagery long before the advent of this current technology.
How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?
I think fashion has the capacity, as much as anything, to spark and sustain desire. When the right elements come together, it feels like pure magic. The designers I most admire draw on politics and history to fuel their work.
Do you have an industry story or experience that you have never talked about?
When I was about 25, I interviewed at a big magazine and had earnestly printed out all my clips. The person interviewing me said, "I don't care if you can write or not. I only care about who you know."
Do trends still matter?
Trends still matter, but in a completely different way! They move faster than ever, yet we’re now able to explore their provenance and power just as quickly.
Who are your fashion heroes?
Liz Tilberis and Diana Vreeland. Fiercely singular women!
What are you most curious to know about how designers work, how a collection comes together?
I am always most curious about the first spark of inspiration for a silhouette or a fabric. When does it arrive? While walking alone and noticing something in nature? In a crowded bar, catching sight of a beautiful stranger? A childhood memory? The answers are always different and always revealing.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
While there is still much room for improvement, fashion has never been more democratic. With a few clicks, a kid in small-town America can find inspiration in the beauty of a Parisian couture atelier, a Hollywood red carpet premiere, a runway show in Lagos, or the streets of Tokyo. I find that accessibility a source of tremendous hope.
What has been a highlight of your career so far?
I’ve been lucky to have many highlights, but a recent one was our ASME nomination for art criticism for Johanna Fateman’s incredible work.
What is a positive objective or goal that you would like to see the industry work towards?
I think there is too much arrogance coupled with ignorance. I would like to see more curiosity and openness.
If you could make any fashion wish come true, what would it be?
Any fashion wishes I have include Pieter Mulier.
This interview has been lightly edited.
