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Alexandre Samson : Shadow in full light

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It may be the most hypnotic exhibition ever held at the Palais Galliera. Temple of Love, a journey through the work of Rick Owens, the first of its kind in France, owes its vision to Alexandre Samson, the mind behind this audacious project that celebrates both dust and light. It reveals all the influences that shaped this singular designer, from Madeleine Vionnet and Mariano Fortuny to Jean-Michel Frank and the great Hollywood filmmakers of the twentieth century. For the first time, the exhibition unfolds in natural daylight and even extends into the museum gardens. Alexandre Samson holds the honour and privilege not only of having conceived the exhibition, but of having paid tribute to a memory scattered across countless places, with no traditional classification or archival logic.

Why is this exhibition so important to you? What does it reveal that is new or singular in Rick Owens’ work? 

The exhibition reveals the rigor and continuity in Rick Owens’s practice. He is a designer who builds each garment in three dimensions, like a sculptor. For me, this exhibition also stands as a manifesto for difference and independence in fashion.

How did you go about developing the project, in terms of archival research and scenography?

The research began with the existing Rick Owens bibliography. It then extended to the brand’s factory and archives in Concordia sulla Secchia, assembled from 2017 onward. The lack of documentation about his early years in Hollywood was offset by rare press articles and interviews with former and current collaborators, as well as a journey retracing the steps of Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy in Hollywood. At the same time, we had to identify and contact collectors of early Rick Owens pieces in order to complete the body of work. The scenography was designed by Rick Owens himself, in dialogue with the museum’s curatorial and logistical guidelines.

What makes this exhibition different from others held at the Palais Galliera? 

The format is unprecedented at Galliera. For the first time, an exhibition extends beyond the museum walls, spilling out onto the building’s façade and into the surrounding gardens. At the same time, in keeping with Rick Owens’ own approach, the exhibition engages with sensitive subjects such as his taste for provocation and his responses to recent political events, topics that are common in contemporary art but still often avoided in fashion.

What are you proudest of? 

Having brought to life a project developed in constant dialogue with Rick Owens. We managed to find a balance between honouring his vision as an artistic director and fulfilling the museum’s educational mission.

Which fashion exhibitions have had the greatest impact on you? 

Unclassifiable Items – From the Gift of Helmut Lang (Selection from KCI’s Collection, No. 35) at the Kyoto Costume Institute in Japan, and a contemporary art exhibition: RAMMΣLLZΣΣ at the Palais de Tokyo. 

What first inspired your vocation? 

A dress by Madame Grès, cut from a single length of black velvet. 

Your ultimate dream? 

That one of the exhibitions I have conceived might inspire a calling and spark the creative path of a future fashion designer. 

 

Rick Owens, Temple of Love 

June 28, 2025 – January 4, 2026

Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

10, avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116 Paris 

www.palaisgalliera.fr