In a play on volumes, the silhouette comes alive through the interplay of fabric and that blaze of colour – a secret the Swiss designer uses to set his audience aglow. The entire corset design has been reimagined to infuse traditional lacing with neo-punk touches, featuring fluorescent yellow spikes on pale pink satin for an impromptu encounter between Gen Z’s screens and one iconic image amongst many: Mainbocher’s corset, photographed by Horst in 1939. Volume emerges from the feathers – explosive, veritable monochrome or gradient fireworks – and luminous bursts are artfully arranged around an hourglass figure, from which these winged bouquets spring forth, forming constellation-like petticoats. One is captivated by the landscape-like embroidery on the men’s jackets; here too, the seamless transitions of blues, yellows and greens create a sense of space and freedom, where celebration is a feeling and freedom a child’s game, as though a polychrome dream. L.B
