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Vaillant's Dance with Fashion

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BY PAUL MCLAUCHLAN

In her youth, Alice Vaillant enjoyed ballet dancing at the Paris Opéra Bastille. For Spring-Summer 2026, she reflected on her childhood pastime by returning to the modernist dance hall in Paris to present her latest collection. With a live performance from ballet dancers from the revered dance studio along with a pianist, Vaillant evoked the structure and fluidity of dance in a collection that riffed on 1920s surrealism and Old Hollywood to imbue some rich historical background to her latest experimentation.

Her opening gambit was a deconstructed tutu dress crafted from 100 metres of organza and tulle. It appeared in multiple iterations, including one styled with a cropped leather jacket. Deconstructing classic codes, Vaillant juxtaposed her dramatic tutus with realistic, boxy tailoring, like sharp-shouldered blazers. She underpinned tailoring with balletic influences like recurring sheer tights, in the form of trendy peddle pushers, and effervescent slip dresses in pastel hues, splicing together silk and organza with lace trimming. Inspired by ‘The Lovers,’ a 1936 painting by surrealist Man Ray, she emblazoned silk slip dresses with lip motifs. Its counterpart came in the form of black organza slips embellished with black sequin lips. Elsewhere, a striped dress bisected by an asymmetrical hemline creates an optical illusion that enhances the sinuous lines of the body.

“I’m excited to take a risk with this runway,” said Vaillant, in a video call from her studio, where she was casting for the runway show. “I hope you can feel the raw emotion.”

What would you like us to know about the SS26 collection?

I was inspired by 1920s surrealism, a little Old Hollywood and, of course, dance. Dance has always been an inspiration for me. This season, we have the opportunity to show at the Paris Opéra Bastille, which means a lot for me because I was a ballet dancer growing up and I danced there. The collection is inspired by the ballet too, the behind-the-scenes and backstage things. 

 

What excites you in fashion right now?

It’s a difficult period so I’m excited to take a risk with this runway. I have live music with a pianist, a performance with two ballet dancers from the Paris Opéra Ballet. It’s something that makes me happy. I hope you can feel the raw emotion.

 

What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?

Young designers should continue to highlight diversity in casting on the runway. We really want to push this.

 

How do you think [your brand/fashion industry] can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?

From the beginning, women have loved my collection because I want to create desire with pieces that make you dream but also have them be wearable. It’s for women who are self-assured and feminine. Because of that, women recognise themselves in my clothing. You know, it’s also important to have a woman designing for women. 

 

What defines elegance in a contemporary context?

Elegance is more about an attitude than a piece of clothing. It’s in the character and presence of the woman.

 

Do trends still matter?

Everything has changed with how fast social media moves. What’s important today is to maybe take more time and try to do things in a different spirit. You have to truly stay focused on one direction and that’s what I’m going for with Vaillant.

 

This piece has been lightly edited. 

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