KEVIN GERMANIER

Les joueuses... That's how Kevin Germanier chose to unveil his new couture opus for winter 2025 at IRCAM, around his alien-esque beauties. An entirely fluorescent mouth, a dancer's chignon, and feather or paper sculptures adorning the head, the construction bends to the law of the party – Germanier's energy. Seven years after the founding of his brand, the pop upcycling prodigy is waging a new colourful battle. Sparkles and pearls enter the mix in volumes that immediately define a style while reshaping it. Creator of all the costumes for the Summer 2024 Olympic Games ceremony, then those for Eurovision 2025, here he is propelling his playful virtuosity towards a rainbow of appearances in some 30 looks. “Playing with silhouettes, textures and patterns. I wanted to add dynamism and optimism,” says the designer who is presenting black silhouettes for the first time, without abandoning his sense of chromatic diversion. Here, his fully embroidered knights walk the catwalk in biker jackets studded with a thousand and one lights, while the gold feather “leftovers” from Beyoncé's costume (Oscar de la Renta) are reinvented in a sumptuous suit of light.

Made in India, Brazil, Switzerland, the Philippines and France, these outfits reflect a desire to “showcase the world's crafts.” Colour strut like a peacock. Everything here is intentionally exaggerated, in a parade of melancholy in XXL mode: bought on Vinted, a jacket that was once used for Eurovision has been fully “recrystallised” with 150,000 sequins, while painted raffia unfurls in bushes: four dresses fit into seven suitcases... The scales of lizard trousers are highlighted with wooden beads, and a crystal ball bag complements fairy shoes. For birds of paradise as much as for disco warriors, melted plastic bottles rise up in multicoloured feathers. They are jubilant, just like all the projects being carried out – from collabs with Nespresso, Caran d'Ache and Bjork – to a retrospective planned for November at the Mudac (Musée d'art moderne de Lausanne) on the theme of “Monstrous.” Go figure, there will be a “Still Alive, Not Dead Yet” room...

L.B