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DRIES VAN NOTEN FALL-WINTER 2026/2027 : The wardrobe of feelings

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By Laurence Benaïm

It's a silhouette, a line, an effortless way of celebrating, through striped jumpers or brocade silk trousers, a Carnaby Street universe with an Eastern feel, a beautiful escape. This polychrome minimalism gives a coat with a rainbow collar its particular radiance, and brings that sense of a family trunk where one rummages to piece together a patchwork, both literal and figurative. Everything is new, and everything seems to have always been there.

For his second menswear collection at Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner opens up a field of possibilities grounded in memory. “I was thinking about the emotion that comes from attachment to a particular garment and the spontaneous ways of wearing it.” Thus this ease that transcends gender, appropriating a "dad's coat" as much as "mum's floral prints" in a highly tactile puzzle. A sentimental journey that gives, with these enchanted capes, these Peruvian bonnets and these pelisses with drop flaps, as with this extraordinary array of jacquard motifs, the feeling that childhood extends beyond time, dodging any youth obsession. From silk-brocade parkas to house-jumpers drawn in schoolbook ink, from kimono pyjamas with crystals embroidered on flannel, sensibility indulges in every journey. Always with this extraordinary palette – deep oranges, pinks, grenadine reds, matcha greens, dissolving sequences of blues – a forest in the city, under the sea. No shouting, no armour. Planet Dries Van Noten is first and foremost a wardrobe of inhabited sensations.

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