LEA MATHONIERE: Organic Mode

What is the main inspiration behind this collection?

MATHO’s inspiration stems first and foremost from the organic forms of living things, but also – and above all – from the human body. MATHO is a brand that speaks to the body, seeking to reveal it rather than conceal it. Through transparency, the interplay of materials and the construction of silhouettes, we aim to question our relationship with the body and what is considered socially acceptable in Western society.

The body is still and far too often hidden, controlled or transformed by the conventions of fashion. At MATHO, we seek, on the contrary, to show it as it is, to make it visible and to create a space where it can be embraced and accepted. This desire to reveal the body lies at the heart of our identity and is particularly evident in this Spring-Summer 2027 collection.

For this season, we have also explored this theme through the marine world. The inspiration comes from summer and the colours found in sunsets: bright, vibrant and dynamic hues. We set out to explore the seabed, focusing in particular on corals reefs and the microscopic forms of plankton. These organisms directly inspired the patterns of our signature knit stitch, giving rise to undulating, irregular and organic shapes.

We also sought to push the boundaries of our research into new technologies and techniques, notably through 3D printing, spray painting and laser cutting in collaboration with the workshops at Teintures de France. These techniques enable us to translate the movements and undulations of the sea and the waves onto the garments, while opening up new possibilities in our approach to fabric.

Which colours did you favour?

For this collection, we wanted to focus on a very summery, sunny and warm colour palette, with bright, vibrant colours that immediately evoke the light and energy of summer.

In particular, we’ve used oranges, pinks and orange-reds, as well as various shades of blue. We really enjoyed working with these colours together, particularly through tie-dye effects where the blues blend with white to create contrasts and more nuanced effects.

We also experimented with colour gradients, notably from orange to a very bright green, which are evident in certain 3D-printed pieces. This technique allows us to create a gradual transition of colours across the material and to enhance the sense of movement that runs through the entire collection.

What about the fabrics?

For this collection, we have focused on lightweight, breathable fabrics that are easy to wear in the summer. In particular, we have worked with cotton and linen, as well as fluid fabrics such as polyamide voile to bring maximum lightness and movement to the silhouettes.

The choice of fabrics also reflects our approach to the body. We wanted fabrics that would hug the silhouette, flatter the figure and play with transparency, while remaining comfortable and easy to wear.

The collection is therefore primarily designed for summer temperatures, featuring airy fabrics that allow the body to breathe and move freely.

We have, however, designed one warmer piece: a jumper made primarily from wool and alpaca, designed for those slightly cooler summer evenings. It can also be easily worn over a swimsuit, as a transitional piece between the beach and the rest of the day.

A favourite destination for summer 2027?

Lecce in Italy; it never disappoints!

A childhood memory that shaped your career?

I think one of my earliest memories linked to fashion comes from my aunts’ and grandmothers’ wardrobes. As a little girl, I loved rummaging through their clothes, hunting for their most beautiful pieces and having fun mixing and matching them to create my own looks.

It was such a lovely, joyful time, almost like a game. I could spend ages trying out different combinations, mixing fabrics, colours and silhouettes. Looking back, it was probably my first way of expressing my creativity.

Is there a film or a book that continues to fascinate you?

Regarding films, I’d always say Jacques Demy’s Peau d’âne. It’s a film that continues to fascinate me with its world, its poetry, its colours and that very unique way of portraying fashion, the body and dreams.

And as for a book, I’d really encourage everyone to read Vivre nu by Margaux Cassan. It’s a book I find particularly interesting, especially for the contemporary perspective it offers on the body and the place it occupies in our society. It’s a reflection that resonates deeply with MATHO’s world and the questions it raises.

Do you have a personal memory linked to this profession?

One memory that always comes to mind is the creation of MATHO’s iconic knit stitch.

It came about entirely by chance while I was knitting at the Duperré School. My knitting carriage slipped unexpectedly while I was working, creating patches of loose threads and irregularities in the knit. Instead of trying to correct this ‘mistake,’ I found the result interesting and began experimenting with it.

It eventually became MATHO’s signature. I really like this idea of a happy accident, a bit like the story of the tarte tatin: a mistake or an accident that ends up giving rise to something new. It has ultimately become MATHO’s signature. 

It’s rather lovely to think that an unexpected gesture, which was initially very personal, has become an instantly recognisable hallmark of MATHO’s collections.

Your playlist for the end of 2026?

For the end of this year, I’d like to suggest a playlist that’s a bit of a pick-me-up, especially given the current situation. Something sunny, energetic and comforting, but featuring artists who also convey powerful messages about freedom, the body and women’s place in society.

I’d imagine a mix of Big Boss Lady by Theodora, Run the World (Girls) by Beyoncé and Don’t Cha by The Pussycat Dolls.

I’d also add Formation by Beyoncé, Independent Women, Pt. 1 by Destiny’s Child, Woman by Doja Cat, Good as Hell by Lizzo and Confident by Demi Lovato.

It’s a playlist made up mainly of women who have left their mark on music history and who, each in their own way, have helped to change perceptions of women, their bodies and their freedom.

The main idea would be to have a playlist that energises you, makes you dance and, at the same time, reminds you that you can take ownership of your body, your image and your voice.

Is there a new place in Paris you’d like to discover?

The museum dedicated to Alberto Giacometti.

Another one – some place historical?

The Guimard Museum at the Hôtel Mezzara, which is set to reopen in late 2027 or early 2028.

A dream for 2027? Any plans?

For 2027, my main dream would simply be to keep growing MATHO, to continue our research and to further develop our world centred on the body, materials and new technologies.

And as for what comes next, I can already give you a little sneak peek: the MATHO adventure is set to go beyond France’s borders. The international stage will be at the heart of our future developments, with new projects and new milestones that we can’t wait to reveal.

Your motto, your mantra?

Cheer up !

This interview has been lightly edited. 

L.B