Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
We create fashion analysis for an audience 100 years from now. Over everything else, we prioritise high quality writing and information density. As often as is possible, we want to deliver the whole story of a designer to our audience. This requires us to take new talent very seriously. Dani and I find young talent a few different ways. We visit fashion school graduations; we look into new designers on the fashion week calendars; we actively listen to our own audience; and we do an end-of-year review where we go over every single runway collection from every fashion capital. Our process is exhaustive.
What is the most significant change you are seeing in fashion right now?
Independent designers are at a great advantage right now. Many customers are questioning the value of designer goods. If independent designers can find those customers, they can introduce them to their world and demonstrate a value that customers haven't experienced yet.
Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
Matthieu Blazy is clearly leading the industry. Even during this fashion week, you can see that other designers are inspired by Blazy's sense of opulence. On the other hand, Phoebe Philo is the gold standard of product. Her range and execution needs to be studied.
How have you seen the fashion narrative change over the past five years?
I think the industry used the streetwear era to pad margins far too much. Now there is growing pressure to offer value for the pricetag. Lots of brands have adjusted well, while others are still catching up.
In what ways is AI impacting the quality of the information in fashion?
AI removes joy. It's such an honour to research and learn deeply about these designers. I can't imagine allowing software to do that automatically. Plus, the end result of AI is quite bland.
How essential is heritage and/or a distinctive identity in contributing to a brand’s success?
It's all a balance and success depends on many, many factors. Heritage can be useful or unuseful; it all depends.
In what ways are you seeing fashion houses enhance their identity/image through experiences beyond the runway?
Videos about process are becoming more common, and I love that! When I'm researching designers like Martin Margiela, early Carol Christian Poell or early Rei Kawakubo, it can be challenging to find concrete information about their process. I know everyone isn't always keen on so much documentation, but we find it to be deeply important.
When was the last time you marvelled over something in fashion?
We just attended the showroom for Glenn Martens's new Margiela collection and there were a number of techniques I'd never seen before. Specifically, a white men's shirt that seemed to have variations in the density of the weave: one section was soft and supple like a casual buttoned up shirt, and another section was rigid like it had been starched many times. It's hard to explain, but I still can't figure out how they did it.
There seems to be more overlap between fashion and show business than ever. Thoughts?
I'm not sure I have an opinion here. Dani and I aren't very knowledgeable about celebrities. Most of them seem very nice, though! Before runways begin, I often find I've been speaking to a celebrity without realising it.
Can you share a mantra for the coming year?
Our mantra is we constantly ask each other how we can "serve the audience." Our goal as a team is to deliver the best fashion videos in the industry. I'm thrilled to say that no other publication or creator comes close.
This interview has been lightly edited.
