Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
I came into fashion as a menswear nerd in the Tumblr era, so community has been at the centre of how I discover new people and ideas. A friend wears something from a new brand or shares a piece by a writer I’ve never read. It comes about organically rather than me seeking out new ideas or brands or voices.
Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
Japan, without a doubt – from the brands to the stores to the magazines to how people dress there.
With the magazine but throughout the industry, there seems to be more overlap between fashion/entertainment and fashion/sports than ever. Thoughts?
I think it’s undeniable that the last decade has been punctuated by the growing influence of celebrity culture. Stars interviewing stars for magazine covers; celebrity creative directors; an ever-growing list of A-list attendees at shows. That said, this season has left me with the impression that this may be cooling off a little bit. I think fashion and sports and entertainment need one another, but I think we might be looking at more niche crossovers rooted in authenticity and actual appreciation rather than just follower count.
AI will continue to disrupt and impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?
If I’m being completely honest, there’s very little about AI that excites me. Seeing how people are currently using AI makes me fearful that it will lead to a flattening of culture and a dulling of our intellect. I’ve yet to see an AI campaign that moved me, at least not in a positive way.
How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?
I think it comes down to making things people need in this day and age. What is that? Either beautiful or utilitarian things. I think we’ve seen that this season with less logo-driven fashion on the runway.
Do trends still matter?
I think it would be foolish to not acknowledge that, commercially, they do. They’re shorter-lasting though, and I think there’s an increasingly large group of people who have embraced post-trend dressing.
Who are your fashion heroes?
It’ll sound funny because he’s a friend; but as a photographer, Tommy Ton. He is a fellow Canadian, but also someone who has an incredible ability to document actual style even when others might not see it. As a writer, I’ll pick another contemporary: W. David Marx, whose work is so interesting to me because of how he meshes fashion, style, culture and sociology.
What are you most curious to know about how designers work, how a collection comes together?
Many a PR can attest that I am a sucker for technical details. I want to know about the incredible savoir-faire or craftsmanship.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
I think there are some exciting younger brands, but also a great deal of talent under the age of 35 – whether designers, stylists, journalists – and we are increasingly seeing them take on bigger roles.
Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?
I dropped out of law school on the first day to focus on a then-fledgling career in fashion.
This interview has been lightly edited.
