What defines Haute Couture in a contemporary context?
Couture is vital for the fashion culture, a very special timespace to marvel over the miracle of the hands and mind at work in the fashion industry. I love knowing about the dizzying hours spent stretching the boundaries of craft. And witnessing a designer letting go of the marketed path of ready-to-wear is always interesting. It’s a moment that reminds me that fashion is a limitless media.
In what ways are you seeing fashion houses enhance their identity/image through experiences beyond the runway?
I’m particularly attentive to the general move of the fashion industry toward lifestyle and their ventures into the world of design. During this recent edition of the Salone del Mobile in Milan, the shift and the interest of fashion brands for design was overwhelming as they were proposing interesting collaborations. I can’t wait for them to take a bolder steps ahead and start working with young designer.
When was the last time you marvelled over something in fashion?
Margiela couture: colour, cut, beauty hair. It has me wowing at my screen every time.
What surprises you about the industry in 2025?
The musical chairs game of head designers. I can’t wait to see what the new mercato order will bring for the major players.
From the early days of your career, what has changed and what has stayed the same?
I was always told to separate private and professional life, and I never could. Now, some of my ex bosses are really good friends. Creation is such an intimate process, you end up sharing core values through your taste, and this builds friendships naturally. My interests evolve, but my taste and my circle are very consistent. In a wider sense, the increased importance of marketing is breaking the toy for designers. And overstepping on design is only ironing out the identity of brands. Thank god for diehard icons like Marc Jacobs and his mad passion for fashion.
Do trends still matter?
Did they ever matter?
Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?
My name helped me in a surprising way. In the beginning of my career after a first experience at Vuitton, I missed an opportunity at a big house because of my infamous last name. A month later, I got the job with Elie top at Lanvin that ended up being the best school i could have hoped for, Ever since, I refer to Elie as my Jewellery Jedi master.
In what ways might you hope to have an impact on fashion this year?
Let’s bring maximalist fashion jewelllery back.
Can you share a mantra that speaks to this moment in time?
Everything, everywhere, all at once!
(this happens to be one of my favourite movies)
This interview has been lightly edited.
