Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
Nothing beats the street. Unfortunately I spend less time there, and I do more scrolling than walking.
What is the most significant change you are seeing in fashion right now?
So much has changed. I see new voices emerging, incisive critics who are giving their opinion on the industry and that's good. Even if sometimes they are very harsh and snide, we need voices like this to rebalance the poles of the profession.
Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
It's impossible to answer this question, as soon as an idea comes up it immediately seems outdated.
How essential is heritage and/or a distinctive identity in contributing to a brand’s success?
I'm a great believer in reinventing codes, mutating them or taking responsibility for abusing them. That requires a great culture of the company you're in. You need to see, read and project yourself. It's not easy.
In what ways are you seeing fashion houses enhance their identity/image through experiences beyond the runway?
Through real-life experiences, telling their story from the inside.
When was the last time you marvelled over something in fashion?
Under the Alexandre III bridge for the Spring-Summer ’24 Maison Margiela Artisanal show by John Galliano.
There seems to be more overlap between fashion/showbusiness than ever. Thoughts?
Yes, Beyoncé has set the bar very high. The only thing I regret about this ever closer link between show business and fashion is the lack of spontaneity it creates on both sides. Everything is contracted, framed, dealt with and marketed upstream. I'd love it if artists could tell their stories and open up. Maybe I'm dreaming a bit.
Can you share a mantra for the coming year?
Tell me something I don’t know.