Haute Couture has become widely popular due to hyper-communication. Is this an advantage or a disadvantage?
It’s definitely an advantage that more people can view, appreciate and be inspired by these collections of exceptional craftsmanship and design.
How can the slow process of creating Haute Couture coexist with today’s fast-paced society?
It is a welcome antidote and serves to remind us of the importance of main-d’œuvre – of skills and techniques that are honed over many years and deployed with thought and talent. The current fascination for ASMR shows that people have a great appetite for this – many of the most popular videos on the V&A’s social media channels are the long, slow videos showing painstaking conservation projects.
What are you most curious to know about how haute couture designers work, how a collection comes together?
The inspiration is always one of the most interesting parts: where do designers take inspiration from, which rich histories and heritages do they draw from and how do their creative minds work? As a museum curator, I am also interested in the textiles and accessories involved: where they are sourced from, how they are worked etc.
In your view, how important are tradition and identity in contributing to the coherence of today’s Maisons?
I think they are pivotal. They provide an essential archive to draw from and a touchstone from which to work, to say true to the Maison’s vision in a way that ensures it remains distinct from other Maisons. I recently heard Peter Copping from Lanvin speak eloquently about re-interpreting Jeanne Lanvin’s original codes for the Maison. He is using and re-imagining them in innovative but respectful ways.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
Fashion unites people in a unique way. The general public is more engaged and more knowledgeable about fashion than ever before, so there is much to be optimistic about.
Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?
I studied law, but I ended up becoming a curator! Those skills have come in handy, though...
This interview has been lightly edited.
