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A Feel For Fashion: Matthias Vriens

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Based in Paris after years living in New York, Matthias Vriens is a Dutch-born fashion photographer and editor known for his provocative imagery and boundary-pushing aesthetic. Having trained as a classical ballet dancer, an injury changed his trajectory and he relocated to Paris, joined Dutch magazine and eventually became editor-in-chief. In the late ’90s, Vriens became the worldwide creative director for Giorgio Armani, and subsequently senior art director for Gucci Group, where he collaborated extensively with Tom Ford, all while launching his photography career. Producing work that is at once subversive and sculpturally precise, sensual and humourous, Vriens has built an impressive portfolio, contributing to such publications as i-D, Numéro, Interview The Face, Vogue, The New York Times, W Magazine Elle and The Face. While he is keeping mum on details for now, Vriens is currently developing a new magazine.

Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?

My phone.

How essential is heritage and/or a distinctive identity in contributing to a brand’s success?

I guess that depends on the amount of finance surrounding it… 

What is something that you believe will change over the course of the year?

My hair; I'm growing it.

What do you enjoy most about Paris Fashion Week®?

It’s always nice to reconnect with old friends — to see who got Botox, Ozempic, gossip and share info.

How would you define elegant in a contemporary context?

Abraham Ortuño Perez (of Abra).

There seems to be more overlap between fashion/entertainment and fashion/sports than ever. Thoughts? 

Zero interest in either of them. The celebrity culture is beyond boring and vulgar at this point. Stop. Then sports, who cares? I guess I’m still recovering from never being picked to either basketball team as a kid. 

Do trends still matter?

Well yes, I guess, but everything moves so fast and is oversaturated, it’s hard to hold onto one particular thing. Do your own thing. It’ll fit in somewhere, somehow.

What is your favourite way/word to compliment someone’s style?

Delicious.

Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?

I‘ve never set out a course – simply followed the path that appeared in front of me and then fully committed. I only ever studied professionally to become a ballet dancer. The rest I faked ‘til I owned it. Worked pretty well so far…

From the early days of your career, what has changed and what has stayed the same?

My face changed quite a bit, I must say; yet my shoe size remains the same.

In what ways might you hope to have an impact on fashion this year?

I am in the midst of starting a new magazine. It has been some 25 years after Dutch magazine, and I think the current state of global chaos created a serious case of anarchy within me. Anarchy not as in me running around naked with a black flag burning, but anarchy as a sense of energy and creativity. I am very inspired at this point and ready for BIG change.

Can you share a mantra that speaks to this moment in time?

Miuccia Prada’s quote: “I got into fashion because I was against everything.” That sounds pretty obnoxious, yet very inspiring, refreshing and delicious!

 

This interview has been lightly edited.