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Focus Designer : Ahmed Hassan - KML

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KML is a Saudi-born fashion label founded by siblings Ahmed and Razan Hassan, who have been shaped by a dialogue between cultural memory and contemporary form. The name, pronounced kamal, derives from the Arabic concept of completeness, reflecting the brand’s pursuit of balance between body, garment and meaning. Drawing on Ahmed's architectural training and his sensitivity to human ergonomics, KML develops unisex silhouettes that combine structure and fluidity, tradition and modernity. Designed to adapt to different bodies and lived realities, the collections explore clothing as a medium of expression rather than decoration. After establishing its identity through pop-ups and digital platforms, KML now makes its Paris Fashion Week debut, signalling a confident step onto the international stage.

Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
An idea or inspiration can come from virtually anywhere: history, art, music, nature, the human body, traditions. As designers, we need to remain attuned and pay close attention in order to recognise and absorb them. When it comes to new ideas, novelty alone is not enough. It needs to carry meaning — a strong reason to exist, rooted in tradition. For us, it is about building, developing and continuing; this is how culture evolves, not by focusing on mere new concepts.

 

What excites you in fashion right now?
More people, including designers, looking inward in search of their truth.

 

And what surprises you the most?
People designing and people purchasing the same things. What is admired on runways is rarely something people actively incorporate into their wardrobe.

 

What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
The increasing interest and attention coming from younger designers. We see this both in their placement at the helm of major fashion houses and in the rise of young brands steadily building a presence.

 

In which ways might fashion creativity effectively drive growth?
The preservation of crafts. Creativity is vital to their continuation and growth. Simply adapting crafts to existing designs lacks true creativity and ultimately leads to their detriment. The key lies in continuously developing these crafts so that they can evolve — something achievable only through creativity.

 

How essential is heritage and/or a distinctive identity in contributing to a brand’s success?
On a deeper level, we are all connected to the same source. We tend to notice differences and emphasise them, when we should instead be focusing on similarities. For us, heritage is essential, as we see ourselves as a continuation of existing traditions.

 

Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
I honestly don’t know. What I can observe is the effect of these influences. We are influenced by things that feel called into existence — the aspiration to create timeless objects, to bring “beauty” into this world, something we believe to be absolute and objective.

 

Do trends still matter?
Not to us.

 

There seems to be more overlap between fashion/entertainment and fashion/sports than ever. Thoughts?
Fashion is central to every aspect of people’s lives, even if it has become more visible recently through entertainment and sports. Dressing up is a daily spiritual exercise, even when no one is watching.

 

In what ways is AI helping you develop and realise ideas that might not have been previously possible?
Not yet, especially in design. We are resisting the adoption of AI, as it still conveys a perceptible visual inhumanity.

 

Your brand is relatively young. How do you think you can develop it within the current fashion landscape?
With truth and time. By remaining faithful to our values, focusing on slow and steady growth. And by creating pieces that are timeless, versatile, body-complementing, and imbued with a deeper meaning — one that feels universal rather than global.

 

Can you share a mantra that speaks to this moment in time?
“As you start to walk on the way, the way appears,” from Rumi.

 

What do you enjoy most about Paris Fashion Week?
People! Paris is where everyone interested in fashion comes together. When we are here, we enjoy connecting with others, appreciating fashion collectively, sharing ideas and collaborating on future projects.


 

This interview has been lightly edited.