When was the last time you marvelled over something in fashion?
I ride my bike through Paris every day, and am constantly marvelling at the way people put together outfits. It’s such a delight. Last weekend, I cut through the techno parade at Republique, and it was a visual trip. I also saw Celine Dion’s opening night and thought her wardrobe choices were a total fashion moment – good for her. I just walked by the JW Anderson boutique and saw a slinky white dress with the most perfect drape. None of this was online or at a show. I’m looking for everyday moments that catch my attention.
AI will continue to impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?
I am completely fatigued by AI. I think we have sold our souls for a Google search upgrade. I do understand that in science, intelligence, and tech, it has much more potential; but in the creative and cultural space, we are losing the essence of who we are and what makes us feel alive. It is contributing to the enshittifcation of everything, when everything already looks the same and below par. We need to step away from our screens. I am no Luddite, but I love conversation, creativity and a pace of life that doesn’t make us feel like we are all on crack.
How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?
I think brands need to examine whether they truly meet some kind of demand or desire. That might be practical, fantastical, whatever. After all, we don’t all have the same needs and wants (thank god). But we need to be convinced about why it should exist. Seduce us. Convince us. It can be modest, but it has to hit a feeling.
Do trends still matter?
In this postmodern era, they exist, but not in an interesting or compelling way. There is so much copy-pasting that it is hard to see where something starts or what it means. The likely reason that you want a pair of cowboy boots right now is because someone in a corporate boardroom somewhere put together a mood board. Nostalgia is another trend that has been ongoing; but to me, nostalgia is about fear. We are scared of the future. So that feels more like an existential crisis.
Who are your fashion heroes?
Anyone who dresses for pure joy of expression; skilled artisans who can sew a dress or make a pair of shoes by hand – that is badass.
What stands out as the most potentially disruptive influence on fashion in the near future?
I'm fascinated by behavioural economics. I like to follow the money, and fashion is flatlining now because people are spending money on aesthetics and wellness. This has replaced fashion as the status quo and has become the thing that makes us feel better about ourselves (only it doesn’t, either).
If you could change one aspect of how we experience fashion today, what would it be?
I think the role of influencers and product placement has gone too far – real taste and personality are hard to detect today. We need more sincerity. To that end, we need to bring back small concept stores. Those physical spaces that were curated by someone with curiosity and taste, where everything was mixed, and you had to go in regularly to discover what was new. Those smaller stores cut through the noise and also support younger brands.
What is one positive objective or goal that you would like to see the industry work towards?
I genuinely want to see more risk-taking from fashion houses. Everyone is working with the same photographers, models and storyboarding. Benchmarking has taken over the industry.
This interview has been lightly edited.
