Ann Demeulemeester Advances Forward by Paul McLauchlan

Now in his fourth season at the helm of Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici is advancing the mythologised brand for a new generation of eager followers besotted by a darkly romantic aesthetic. The Italian designer is melding his perspective with the eponymous founder, whose constructivist-meets-whimsical designs captured the zeitgeist during her ascent in the 1990s. This season, he embarked on a creative expedition across desert terrain, embracing the vastness and quietude of the landscape as a challenge and invitation to think clearly about his vision for the brand. 

Without fully retreating into the past, Gallici put his stamp on the brand codes like androgyny, tailoring, and poetic elegance on a cast of waifs and vagabonds, which evokes Georgia O’Keefe as much as the kids on the Paris club scene. The indelible imprint of the founder looms large over proceedings today on this runway — and on many others. You can see it in the robust tailoring offering, or white shirts with ruffle trims and the largely monochromatic palette. Gallici is much more comfortable with imparting a sense of romance than his predecessors who came after the founding designer. This could be the clarity he found in the desert. 

“The heritage of Ann Demeulemeester is not something I see as separate from my vision; rather, it’s a natural extension of it. My work has always been about creating a dialogue between the past and the present, where the essence of what came before can seamlessly inform and enrich what is to come,” Gallici said in an email, ahead of the show. 

How do you balance the legacy of Ann Demeulemeester while trying to bring the brand forward into a new era? 

For me, it’s not really about balancing the legacy; it’s about embracing it and allowing it to exist alongside my world. I find it quite natural to move between these two universes, drawing from both to create something that feels authentic, yet forward-looking

Who would you most like to connect with in this new chapter of Ann Demeulemeester? 

In this new chapter, I’m focused on reaching out to younger generations. As a young creative director, it feels completely natural for me to communicate directly with my peers. But I also want my work to be more than a "one-way" conversation. I want to open the door for as many people as possible to connect with the brand. Every season, I see this dialogue expanding, growing, and deepening. I believe there is a deep need to dream, to create, to make. Ann Demeulemeester is, at its core, a brand for dreamers and makers — those who see the world through a poetic lens. I aim to gather all those who want to create, to push boundaries, and to live within a universe of art, in all its forms. It’s about speaking to anyone who feels the pull to build something, whether through fashion or any other medium of expression.

How essential is heritage and/or a distinctive identity to a brand’s success? 

Heritage is essential, especially for a brand like this. It’s not just a foundation, but a source of strength that keeps you grounded. For me, the identity of Ann Demeulemeester is deeply rooted in its history. It’s about honouring  that legacy while still leaving space to evolve.

How do you think [your brand/fashion industry] can spark and sustain desire with so much else happening in the world?

In a world that is constantly shifting and evolving, I believe that fashion can spark desire, not by responding to the noise, but by offering something authentic, something deeply personal. I don’t see fashion as something to follow; but rather as a form of art that challenges and inspires. By staying true to a vision, by embracing both the beauty and the fragility of life, I think fashion can remain relevant and sustain desire, even in such turbulent times. It’s about offering more than just clothing; it’s about offering a way for people to express who they are, or perhaps, who they aspire to be.

What do you find most exciting about working in fashion in 2025? 

What excites me most about working in fashion in 2025 is the endless potential for storytelling — the ability to dream without limits. Fashion, at its core, is a medium for expression, and every season offers an opportunity to explore new ideas, new collaborations, and new visions. It's a space where boundaries are constantly shifting, and every six months, there’s a fresh canvas, a chance to reinvent and discover something new.

What surprises you about the fashion industry in 2025? 

What surprises me most about the fashion industry in 2025 is the overwhelming pressure to produce so many collections in such a short time. It feels as though the rhythm has become relentless, with every season demanding more, faster, and with less room for reflection. This rapid pace can sometimes overshadow the essence of what fashion truly is — a space for creativity, for thought, for deeper exploration.

This interview has been lightly edited.