What excites you in fashion right now?
I think we are at the beginning of a major reset across all aspects of fashion. Retail, design and communication are all in a moment of transformation, and although this makes the current landscape somewhat confusing and a bit murky, I believe we are on the verge of discovering a new voice with a fresh message and vision that will guide the industry for at least the next decade. That’s the great promise of fashion: there is always hope in the next season.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
We have pretty much burned our bridges to the past by now. Magazines will never again be the singular force they once were, retail will no longer be (or need to be) purely an in-person experience, and design must respond to new ways of living and evolving ideas around gender identity. The old systems no longer work and have already been dismantled, so the only viable path is forward.
Do trends still matter?
I think trends matter less today because there are so many distinct style tribes. If you are deeply invested in Rick Owens, a trend coming from Ralph Lauren is essentially irrelevant. I believe individual voices and visions will matter far more going forward.
Given current uncertainties, in what ways do you see brands or houses effectively driving business growth?
I hope brands focus on building healthy businesses with loyal followings shaped by the designer or owner, like Rick Owens, or what Dries had before he retired. I miss the days when brands were judged by their creativity and the beauty of their products rather than profit margins or store counts. I want designers who present a clear vision of modern fashion, rather than bending their ideas to fit a pre-existing brand formula.
What aspect of your work is most fulfilling?
I love capturing and sharing images that people find inspiring, and creating a space on social media where people who take style seriously, even if they are not famous, can be celebrated. I also love making books, because they are physical objects that endure longer than exhibitions and feel far more tactile than anything online.
What is your favourite way or word to compliment someone’s style?
I ask to take a photo of it. When I do, it’s not really about what I say, they can see it in my eyes.
In what ways is AI helping you develop and realise ideas that might not have been previously possible?
So far, AI has mainly helped me with planning and researching subjects, as well as potential trips.
The Sartorialist has marked 20 years of portraying stylish people on the streets, with Paris as one of its epicentres. Have you seen an evolution in aesthetic?
The biggest shift is that people used to dress for their friends and local peer groups, whereas now they often dress for an audience, whether that audience is 500 or 50,000 people. They dress for people they will never meet more than for those in their immediate lives. For some, this has led to a more conservative style to avoid criticism; for others, it has encouraged more dramatic choices to attract attention.
What are the most exciting aspects of Parisian style?
I love that the French aren’t afraid to be a little sexy and a little naughty. They don’t strive for perfection like Americans or Italians, and they would never be quirky like the English or abstract like the Japanese. The French seem content simply wanting to be cool, and that’s perfectly fine.
