Where do you look for new ideas or voices in fashion?
I’m guided by friends who are true fashion insiders. My friend George introduced me to Tomo Koizumi, while another talented friend, Dena, keeps me two years ahead of what's happening in fashion. I prefer to approach fashion from an artistic, tribute-driven perspective rather than chasing trends.
Who or what is generating the greatest influence in fashion today?
For me, Daniel Roseberry stands in the spotlight as a true maestro of the discipline. Alessandro Michele never disappoints either. His tribute collection for Valentino was magnificently bold, bringing the garment itself back to the centre of the dialogue.
There seems to be more overlap between fashion and beauty with entertainment/sports than ever. Thoughts?
Fashion is a medium of beauty, or perhaps the other way around. For me, clothing is an extension of skin, a way to communicate from the inside out through fabric, colour, and shape.
AI will continue to disrupt and impact how we live and work. What excites you and what concerns you?
AI excites me as a new technology, particularly for healthcare solutions. Faster research and diagnostics represent a major step forward in curing disease. My concern is ecological, both for the planet and humanity. It's urgent that we find alternatives to using clean water for cooling data centres. I recently came across a solution in Switzerland where the heat generated by data centres is repurposed for collective building heating. We must stop using precious resources like water to power the latest technology of our era.
On the human side, our growing trust in AI raises questions about what we truly value in humanity. AI is programmed using existing data, data that's already in the past. It's the unpredictable nature of creativity that concerns me, this sense of making something never seen before. This hyper-predictable way of thinking and doing, this "it's always been like this" mentality, that's what scares me. I love seeing creatives taking over AI, sending messages of possible anarchy.
How do you think fashion can spark and sustain desire with so much else going on in the world?
It’s much more than who's wearing what or where. I love seeing un-polarized fashion taking over with narratives inspired by classic maisons but previously silenced by lack of PR and exposure. Now we have access to the world, and we're seeing Gen Z and Gen Alpha embracing fashion differently as political statements.
Do trends still matter?
Not to me. But we still have this primitive reaction toward belonging and caste. I think the future of clothing lies in personalization as a reaction to the mass market. Exclusivity, uniqueness, and longevity will become the new luxury.
Who are your fashion heroes?
Stella Jean, Maximilian Davis, Gaurav Gupta, Ulla Johnson.
What are you most curious to know about how designers work, how a collection comes together?
As a skin artisan, I'm fascinated by the work of the petites mains the savoir-faire from seamstresses to feather workers to leather goods manufacturers. That's what captivates me most.
What is one reason to be optimistic about the state of fashion going forward?
The new generation of designers has access to platforms outside conventional fashion school routes. There are no doors to go through, they're building their own doors to be seen.
Tell us something surprising about how you got to where you are today?
The fashion world has always endorsed me, starting with my very first review in British Vogue by Dena Giannini, followed by being embraced by fashion icons like Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni and Farida Khelfa, Tracee Ellis Ross and Tyler Mitchell at the Met. Fashion has always been part of my success.
What has been a highlight of your career so far?
Launching my brand when everyone said it wasn't a good idea that you couldn't create a brand on your own. I created and launched my first product, and now I’m pursuing more by following my gut instinct.
When was the last time you marveled over something in fashion?
It’s actually related to sports. I loved that football players during the Africa Cup of Nations wore traditional outfits. It was full of symbolism and a real fashion statement.
What is a positive objective or goal that you would like to see the industry work towards?
More storytelling, less transparency — as in, a little more mystery! There’s a kind of radical openness that flattens everything into uniformity.
If you could make any fashion wish come true, what would it be?
To only wear sur mesure clothing, to be comfortable at any time.
This interview has been lightly edited.
